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Whole House Water Filters

A whole home water filtration system treats every drop the moment it enters your house — the kitchen tap, the shower, the ice maker, even the laundry. No more drinking-water-only protection: filter at the point of entry, once, for the entire household.

1M+ gal
rated cartridge life (system)
15 GPM
peak flow, 20" Big Blue
97%
chlorine reduction, NSF/ANSI 42
6 mo
typical cartridge change
ClearFit Point-of-Entry Series · all 3 systems →

3-Stage Whole House Filtration System

HOUSE S1 · SEDIMENT S2 · CARBON S3 · IRON+/LEAD MAIN IN CF-WH3 · 20" BIG BLUE · 15 GPM
$289.00 $349.00 SAVE $60

Never miss a change — the free filter calendar reminds you when the 3-cartridge kit is due. Never open a green, smelly housing again.

Subscribe
NSF/ANSI 42 & 53 mediaMount kit incl.1-yr guarantee
What a whole home filter removesmedia-dependent, see stage comparison below
  • 97% chlorine & taste/odor
  • 99% sediment @ 5 µm
  • ↓ iron & rust staining
  • ↓ lead (NSF/53 media)
  • ↓ VOCs & herbicides
  • ↓ scale-feeding sediment

01Choose by Problem — What's in Your Water?

The right whole house filter depends on what you’re actually fighting. Pick the symptom you see at home — each card links to a full contaminant guide with test data and the exact media that removes it.

Cloudy, gritty or discolored water

Sediment & turbidity — sand, silt, rust flakes after pipe work or on well water. Clogs fixtures, shortens appliance life.

5 µm spun PP1-STAGE OK
Sediment & turbidity guide →

Chlorine taste & smell

Municipal supply — pool-like smell in showers, dry skin, flat-tasting coffee and ice. The #1 reason households upgrade.

coconut carbon blockNSF/ANSI 42
Chlorine taste & odor guide →

Iron & rust stains

Orange rings in toilets and tubs, metallic taste, whites turning yellow — classic ferrous iron, common on wells.

KDF/GAC stage 33-STAGE REC.
Iron & rust staining guide →

Lead & heavy metals

Older homes with lead service lines or pre-1986 solder. No taste, no smell — only a test or NSF/53-rated media tells you it’s gone.

NSF/ANSI 53 carbonTEST FIRST
Lead removal guide →

Hard water & limescale

White crust on faucets, soap that won’t lather, water heaters working overtime. Be honest with yourself here — read the card.

FILTER ≠ SOFTENERPAIRS W/ SOFTENER
Hard water vs filtration →

Well water, multiple issues

Private wells combine sediment + iron + sulfur smell + bacteria risk. Start with a $30 test kit, then match stages to results.

3-STAGEWELL CONFIG
Well water setup guide →

Don’t know what’s in your water? Start with the $30 test-kit walkthrough — every recommendation on this page maps to a test result.

How a Whole House Filter Actually Works

Every drop of water entering the house passes through the same sequence — coarse first, fine second, specialty third. Stage order is not cosmetic: each cartridge protects the next, and swapping the order is the fastest way to kill a carbon stage.

Why order matters: carbon loaded with sediment loses surface area within weeks, and specialty media blinded by rust dust stops being selective. Sediment first is what makes the expensive stages last their rated life — a $10 sediment cartridge is the cheapest insurance in the chain.

02Choose by Size — Big Blue 10" Vs 20"

Housing size sets your flow rate and cartridge life, not what gets filtered. Count your bathrooms before you count anything else. All three fit standard 1" plumbing with the included mount kit.

Pressure Drop & Flow — the Buying Note Nobody Gives You

A correctly sized whole house system drops pressure by less than 2 PSI at normal household draw — you will never feel it at a shower head. The failure mode is undersizing: a 10-inch slim housing feeding three simultaneous bathrooms restricts exactly when the house draws hardest. Count simultaneous users, not people: one bath running plus a dishwasher plus a load of laundry is ~10–12 GPM, which is Big Blue 20-inch territory (15 GPM peak on our chassis). Households with one or two bathrooms and standard municipal flow are well served by the 10-inch; irrigation, well pumps or 3+ bathrooms should start at the 20. And replace cartridges on schedule — pressure drop climbs as media loads, which is the system telling you the clock has run out.

03Compare Whole House Water Filter Systems

Three home water filtration systems, one chassis — pick how many stages your water needs. Every system ships pre-assembled with brackets, shut-off valves and a bypass: the household standard for point-of-entry purification, without the plumber-platinum price.

1-Stage
CF-WH1
2-Stage
CF-WH2
3-Stage Big Blue
CF-WH3 · Best Seller
System price$129.00$189.00$289.00 SAVE $60
Stage 15 µm sediment5 µm sediment25 µm washable sediment
Stage 2—Coconut carbon block5 µm carbon block
Stage 3——KDF/GAC iron & lead media
Chlorine reduction—97% @ NSF/4297% @ NSF/42 + taste polish
Lead / heavy metals——NSF/53-rated reduction
Sediment / turbidity99% @ 5 µm99% @ 5 µm99% @ 5 µm, longer life
Peak flow rate10 GPM10 GPM15 GPM
Best forSediment-only concerns, small homesMunicipal water, chlorine & tasteWells, lead risk, 3+ bath homes
Cartridge kit (per change)$18.99$41.98$89.00 → $71.20 on subscription
Change interval3–6 months6 months6 months (S1: 6–9 mo)
HousingBig Blue 10"Big Blue 10" ×2Big Blue 20" ×2 + 10"
View CF-WH1 View CF-WH2 Add CF-WH3 — $289

What a Year Actually Costs

Line itemCostCadence
3-stage system (CF-WH3)$289 $349once
1-stage / 2-stage entry systems$129 / $189once
Full cartridge kit, subscription$71.20/cycleevery 6 months
DIY install (tools you likely own)$0 · 2–4 hrsonce
Licensed plumber install$150–350 · 1–2 hrsonce
Year one, CF-WH3, DIY route$431.40 ($289 + 2×$71.20)drops to ~$142/yr after

Sediment-only stages in heavy-well homes may need a mid-cycle swap; city-water homes typically ride the full 6 months. Kit pricing shown for the CF-WH3 subscription; single stages reorder individually.

Where a Whole House Filter Stops — and What to Add Next

A filtration system removes what is suspended or dissolved-and-adsorbable. Three common problems sit outside that job description, and each has a purpose-built companion that bolts onto the same line:

UV sterilizer — microbes

Filters catch particles; ultraviolet light neutralizes what has no size to catch — bacteria, viruses and cysts that pass through any media bed. Worth it on untreated well water; redundant on chlorinated city supply (the chlorine stage already handles the load). Start reading: bacteria, viruses, Legionella.

Water softener — hardness

Calcium and magnesium are dissolved minerals no filter adsorbs — they need ion exchange. A softener after the whole house filter protects the resin bed from sediment and lets the filter handle everything else. White crust on fixtures is the symptom: hard water, TDS.

Iron & sulfur specialty — wells

Dissolved iron (clear water that stains orange) and hydrogen sulfide (rotten-egg smell) respond to catalytic media and oxidation, sized to measured levels — our stage-3 config. Deep dives: iron, sulfur smell, manganese, well water guide.

The sequencing rule: filter first, then treat. Sediment and chlorine upstream protect the softener resin and the UV quartz sleeve; skipping the filter shortens both. Every contaminant guide in the encyclopedia — lead, PFAS, chlorine, sediment, microplastics — ends with the specific filtration answer for that problem, so you buy the stage the water actually needs.

04Installation: DIY or Plumber?

How to install a whole house water filter system: the honest answer is 2–4 hours with basic tools if your main is accessible, or $150–350 for a licensed plumber if you’d rather not touch the supply line. Both paths are normal — about 60% of our customers self-install.

DIY PATH · ~60% OF OWNERS

Self-install

2–4 hours · $0 labor · skill level: confident homeowner
  • ✓Pipe cutter, two wrenches & Teflon tape — under $40 if you own none of it
  • ✓Mount kit, shut-off valves and bypass included with every ClearFit system
  • !Get it inspected if your county requires a permit for point-of-entry work
PLUMBER PATH · ~40%

Hire a licensed plumber

1–2 hours · $150–350 typical labor
  • ✓Best for copper main lines, tight crawlspace mounts or HOA rules
  • ✓They handle main shut-off, drainage & code-compliant bypass
  • ✓Hand them the included template — fittings are standard 1" NPT
  • ✓Many bundle the install with a water heater flush for one trip fee
STEP 01Shut off & drain the mainClose the main valve, open the lowest faucet in the house to drain pressure.
STEP 02Cut & fit the bypassCut 14" of pipe, dry-fit brackets and the included bypass manifold first.
STEP 03Mount housings, load mediaAnchor to stud or masonry; hand-tighten housings with the wrench tool.
STEP 04Slow-open, flush & checkOpen the main a quarter-turn, run an outside tap 5 min, check every joint.

05Replacement Cartridges on Autopilot

A whole home filtration system only protects the house while its cartridges are fresh. Skip the “when did we last change it?” argument — the kit arrives before the water goes bad.

  • 01
    One kit, every 6 monthsAll stages in one box, matched to your system — sediment, carbon and specialty media pre-selected.
  • 02
    20% off, foreverCF-WH3 kit: $89.00 → $71.20 per cycle. Skip a cycle, swap sizes or cancel in two clicks.
  • 03
    Free shipping, alwaysSubscriptions ship free with no order minimum — the $49 threshold.
  • 04
    Synced to your Home Filter CalendarWhole-house cycles, fridge filters and HVAC filters all surface on one reminder feed.
Home Filter Calendar

Every filter in your house — water and air — on one schedule. Add your system and last change date; we remind you before flow drops.

WH Whole house · 6 moRF Fridge · 6 moHVAC Air · 3 moHW Humidifier pad · season

06Whole House Filter Questions

Placement and coverage. An under-sink (point-of-use) filter treats one tap — usually the kitchen. A whole house (point-of-entry) system mounts on the main supply line and treats every tap, shower, appliance and ice maker. Many households run both: whole-house for chlorine, sediment and scale-feeding grit; a small under-sink or RO unit for drinking-water polish.
They solve different problems and are not substitutes. Filtration removes particles and chemicals (sediment, chlorine, iron, lead); softening exchanges dissolved calcium and magnesium — the minerals behind limescale. A carbon system will not soften hard water. If your test shows hardness above ~7 gpg, run the filter first, then a softener. Our hard water guide compares the two side by side.
Count simultaneous water users, not people. One bath running is roughly 2–3 GPM; a 2-bath household peaks near 8–10 GPM. Rule of thumb: 1–2 baths → 10" Big Blue at 10 GPM; 3+ baths or a well → 20" Big Blue at 15 GPM. The size comparison above maps every option.
Sediment stages last 3–6 months (wells run the short end); carbon stages 6 months; specialty iron/lead media 6–12 months. Pressure drop is your real gauge — when flow at the farthest faucet slows, the sediment stage is loaded. Subscribers get the full kit every 6 months automatically, synced to the Home Filter Calendar.
Yes — wells are actually where multi-stage systems earn their keep, because wells combine sediment, iron and sulfur issues that city water doesn’t. Match stages to a test result: our well water setup guide maps each test line to a media choice. For bacterial concerns, filtration is step one but disinfection (UV) is a separate, required stage.
DIY: $0 labor beyond ~$40 of tools (2–4 hours, guide above). Plumber: typically $150–350 for a straightforward main-line mount, more if you need copper work or a crawlspace rig. Every ClearFit system ships with brackets, valves and a bypass so either path is a standard job.
A correctly sized system drops pressure less than 2 PSI at normal flow — imperceptible. Pressure loss happens when a cartridge is overdue or the housing is undersized for the house. That’s why flow rate (10 vs 15 GPM) is the spec that matters most; size up if you’re between two options.

Yes, if the filter sits anywhere unheated — a garage, crawl space or against a north wall. Water freezing inside a housing will split the shell or crack the head, and that failure is not covered as a defect. For cold climates: mount on the warm side of the foundation wall, insulate the housing with a purpose-made jacket, and if the space truly freezes, drain the system before the first hard freeze — shut the main, open a low tap, and let the housings empty. City-water homes with the filter in a basement corner rarely need any of this.

Add later, with one caveat. The 1-, 2- and 3-stage systems share one chassis line — the housings daisy-chain on standard couplings — so a 1-stage owner can tee in a carbon housing or a specialty stage when a water test says so. The caveat is sizing: if you start on a 10-inch slim housing and later add two more stages plus a softener on the same line, you may outgrow the flow rate, and the honest upgrade is the 20-inch Big Blue chassis rather than stacking restrictions. Buy the stages the water test justifies today; buy the housing the house may need tomorrow.